My Wild, Vast Journey Through Saudi Arabia

Author: Maranda Pleasant

Historical Writing: Katja Gaskell

Images: A.M. Level

How a Middle-Aged Woman Rediscovered Herself in the Unlikeliest of Places

My trip to Saudi Arabia was last-minute, and we had only one photographer available, so after almost two decades, I was pushed in front of the lens. For 16 years, I’ve kept myself behind the camera, photographing the most gorgeous places on earth, but I’ve rarely even had an editor’s photo. What began as an assignment turned into a life-transforming experience in a place I’d never expect. 

For the first time, I was able to have main-character energy in my own life, to be the lead in my story for this dream vacation. I got to wear my big, impossible hats, dresses I’ve been saving for years, stuffing them feverishly into one large suitcase, straddling, sitting, squashing them in, and praying that the zipper would close. 

This was more than a destination, more than a trip; what it represented for me was much deeper. Sometimes it’s really refreshing to actually see a woman over 45 on wild adventures, having an authentic experience, living out her dreams. Perhaps one of the most challenging aspects was having to look at my ever-changing, aging face rather than hiding behind the camera, and realizing that’s what I had been doing: hiding.

As moms, we spend much of our lives caring for others. My trip to Saudi was one I could actually slow down, savor, and explore for myself. From hiking Desert Rock to swimming in the turquoise Red Sea, playing in the sand dunes, biking and hitchhiking through rock formations in AlUla, and exploring unknown cities and meeting new people, these were three of the best weeks of my life. 

The part most travel stories rarely tell you about is the self-exploration that unfolds as you meld with and interact with the energy of a new place. It opens some unknown part of you, some faraway aspect that you vaguely recognize, and you discover yourself in new ways. 

Completely unexpected, a total surprise, this was exactly the break I needed from the world. It created a new definition of slow travel for me: everything was foreign and new, and I met it with wonder because I had no expectations. I worked out sometimes twice a day in picturesque gyms with stunning views, just because I could. Sauna and steam multiple times each day, just because I could. It was soul-nourishing and restorative, and the wellness holiday I didn’t know I needed until I was in it. It was a creative pause in the middle of a hectic life, and the first holiday I returned from in better shape both mentally and physically. 

Traveling midlife as a woman, moving through the world, you watch your interests change, your priorities shift, and the world begins to quiet when you don’t have to take care of others and think about everyone else first. You get to be completely present, surrounded by excitement that you can fully enjoy. I met groups of women on girls’ trips having the time of their lives. I heard their wild laughter and camaraderie, and I watched them travel together through the desert with the same idea: a commitment to never stop exploring, wondering, or adventuring. 

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Adventures in Riyadh

We had just arrived in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia’s sunbaked capital, located in the heart of the country. We dropped our bags at the Jareed Hotel and were eager to explore a country we knew so little about. We took an Uber, and on the way to a small market, our driver, Saud, said he had also lived in Los Angeles, and we all shared stories.

As we were about to leave his car at a local market we had found online, he said, “I know better places. Let’s ride the metro. Let’s spend the day sightseeing. I want you to see my favorite spots.” He told us he wouldn’t accept any money. We were a bit astonished. 

Why not? We were here for the adventure. We promised ourselves we would keep saying yes to life and to new opportunities. 

We tried to buy Saud lunch from a market vendor, but the owner wouldn’t let us pay. He said, “We’re just happy you’re visiting,” and asked me to tell my friends about his delicious chickpea recipes. I told him I didn’t have any friends, lol. We laughed, and he said, “Welcome to SA.”

So Saud took the day off, rode the metro with us, bought us Saudi coffee and dates at landmarks, markets, and cafés, and refused to take a dime. He explained that he wanted us to love Saudi and see it through his eyes. This was the beginning of a three-week journey exploring the depths of a country and the hearts of a people who radiated warmth wherever we went. 

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The History of Riyadh

Today, Riyadh is an ultra-modern capital: a city of vertiginous skyscrapers, high-end shopping malls, and the world’s longest driverless metro. But it’s also a city of contrasts, with mudbrick fortresses and bustling souqs where merchants sell spices and perfumes alongside elegant bisht, the traditional Arabian cloak men wear over their thobes. 

We abandoned our plans to visit Al Muruj and instead headed to the Old Downtown and Souq Al-Zal, set near the 19th-century mudbrick Al Masmak Fortress. This is one of Riyadh’s oldest markets, a network of narrow lanes and sunlit alleyways heady with the scent of burning oud, filled with traders unfurling rugs in various designs and origins, antique dealers arranging old coins or pieces of furniture, and stalls piled high with traditional shemagh, elegant dallahs, and handcrafted jewelry. After watching an impromptu auction, we stopped at a café and nibbled on dates while sipping cardamom-and-saffron-laced Saudi coffee. 

The next day, we learned about the kingdom’s long, storied history at the National Museum of Saudi Arabia. Located in Al Murabba, this landmark museum was designed as a place of learning and discovery. It opened in 1999 to celebrate the centenary of Saudi unification. The museum’s central design feature is the curved west wall, made of local limestone, which glows red in the setting sun. The museum explores the kingdom’s heritage from ancient civilizations to modern-day innovations. 

To really see how Riyadh has transformed from a small collection of agricultural villages and oases to the largest city in Saudi Arabia, take the high-speed lift to the 99th-floor Sky Bridge inside the Kingdom Center. Located 300 meters above the city, the bridge allows 360-degree views over the city. 

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Wellness + Women

Honestly, we didn’t know what to expect when we touched down. What I discovered is that Saudi is an avid wellness lover’s dream. I found the local women’s gym near our hotel teeming with female powerlifters. We all put on our weight-lifting gloves and watched each other’s form in seated squats and overhead presses. High fives, encouragement, and celebrating new weight-lifting record breakers were something I did not expect. In the evening, I attended a Pilates Reformer class at Balance Republic (a female-owned/run studio) and found laughter, movement, and more inspiring women. If I don’t move every day, especially while I’m traveling and indulging, my mental health suffers, and to my surprise, there are state-of-the-art gyms everywhere. 

We also made sure to book a hotel with a steam room and late hours so we could relax and take care of our skin after a long day of exploring. The Jareed Hotel had a luxurious spa and marble steam room, which I usually had to myself in the evenings. They also had a living room for guests, reminding me of the Soho House in London, where I met phenomenal women, some working, some having coffee. 

Many of my new friends had PhDs, and we shared our passions, projects, and creative goals. I realized I had not slowed down in so long that it had been ages since I’d had genuine camaraderie with inspiring women around me. Riyadh gave me the gift of taking a beat, a deep breath, and a good look at myself, and realizing how much of my life I was missing by not being fully present. 

One of my favorite memories was selecting the female-driver option on Uber, getting picked up on my third day, and dancing in the car to Saudi music with the driver. We shared more laughter than words, but nothing was lost in translation as we rolled through the beautiful city with a fun lightness that was a refreshing change from my chaotic routine back home. 

The next day, I visited Diriyah, an ancient city rich in history and cultural heritage, and the kingdom’s birthplace. I found other women taking shadow photos, playing with the light. They were generous enough to let me join in, where strangers become creative collaborators, and we couldn’t stop laughing at our absurdity, making shapes on the wall as if in a spontaneous performative art piece. The energy of creativity changed how we moved and photographed, leaving us inspired. 

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The History of Diriyah

On the northwestern outskirts of Riyadh, just 15 minutes from downtown, is the old mud-walled city of Diriyah. Named the City of Earth, Diriyah sits on the banks of Wadi Hanifa and is divided into various districts. 

At its heart is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of At-Turaif. Once an oasis settlement, it became the birthplace of the First Saudi State in 1727. The area is being carefully restored as part of a vast heritage project—one of the biggest in Saudi Arabia—and sandstone palaces, palm-lined courtyards, mosques, and souqs are slowly being brought back to life. The highlight is the Salwa Palace, one of the largest in the Diriyah and the former residence of AlSaud’s princes and imams. Today, it is home to a museum showcasing ancient artifacts, handwritten manuscripts, and the royal family tree. 

Culinary Lovers Rejoice

New developments include Al-Bujairi Heritage Park and Bujairi Terrace, which offer fantastic views over At-Turaif. Bujairi Terrace is Diriyah’s fine-dining venue, featuring 20 restaurants, including Takaya, a contemporary restaurant offering a curated selection of dishes from across the kingdom. Created by restaurateur Al Motawa, the restaurant initially focused on meals that she had enjoyed as a child. The project soon grew, and Al Motawa traveled to every corner of the kingdom to study the origins of regional dishes, ingredients, and cooking techniques. Today, Takaya offers traditional dishes from across Saudi Arabia, presented with a contemporary flair. 

The JAX District

To the north of Al-Bujairi is Al-Suraiha, home to the mud-brick Al-Suraiha Mosque, one of the oldest in Diriyah. Diriyah is also home to the JAX District, which has transformed a former industrial heritage site into a hub for arts and creative industries. More than 100 former warehouses now house galleries, creative agencies, and artist studios. The neighborhood also hosts the international art event Diriyah Biennale. 

In the Samhan neighborhood, women in colorful abayas explore artsy shops and groups of friends dine at the many cozy cafés and restaurants. On the night we were there, we even got to watch a lively game of football (soccer). Samhan Farm, near the Wadi Hanifa outlook, has been designed in the traditional Najdi style as a rural escape. 

Sustainablity + Community

At the core of Diriyah’s vision is sustainability, both environmental and social. The goal is to create a mixed-use community where people can live, work, and play, with a focus on water conservation, energy efficiency, wellness, culture, and heritage preservation. 

The new city is 100% walkable. Construction (and restoration) is being carried out using mudbrick construction, just as the original villages were built from natural materials. Natural materials keep thermal energy from reflecting in Riyadh’s sometimes intense climate. The surrounding wadi is being reborn with 6.5 million indigenous plants, using desalinated water and smart irrigation systems. 

Bab Samhan Hotel in Diriyah 

We were lucky enough to experience Bab Samhan, the hotel in the heart of Diriyah, a short walk from the Bujairi Terrace restaurant district. The hotel sits on the site of a 300-year-old Najdi village and was carefully crafted, with architects using the outlines of long-buried foundations to shape its structure. 

The result is a five-star slice of history, with no two rooms alike. Some have irregular walls, others exposed wooden windows, but all seamlessly blend history with the contemporary. The most atmospheric are the Royal and Presidential Suites. The textures of rich, deep-hued textiles and woven rugs within the sand-hued walls, not to mention locally crafted art, bring warmth and style. It’s the first of 40 luxury hotels planned for the revamped district, and it has set a high bar for what comes next.

AlUla

The Energy of AlUla

Nothing prepares you for AlUla. You’ve seen the photos of the unique rock formations, the mirrored building Maraya (the world’s largest), and the distinctive Elephant Rock. But to be there, biking in the desert, felt like we were on another planet. The energy, the stars, and the creativity we felt were nothing short of magical (a word I use sparingly). Fire ceremonies, Saudi coffee in the middle of the desert, dancing in front of the Maraya with strangers during numerous outfit changes—it was an unparalleled week. 

Hitchhiking in the Desert

When we first arrived, we had forgotten to book transportation for the first day, so we hitchhiked from our first hotel to AlUla’s historic old town. What a wild, fun time. Hearts open, thumbs out, wide open roads, surrounded by movie-like rock formations, we felt like anything was possible. We rode with more than four drivers, met a security minister, and explored the artist studios. We explored the old town filled with secret passages, artisan markets and shops, and outdoor cafés. 

Banyan Tree Resort

We stayed at Banyan Tree Resort, one of the most unique, exquisite hotels and locations we’ve ever experienced. There was a surreal feeling of freedom as we rode our bikes through what looked like a Star Wars movie set, surrounded by rock formations, desert villas, and a swimming pool nestled between two craters, with a view of the desert. 

Our French photographer, Antoine, and I felt like two kids on a giant playground, suspended in space and time, within this energetic vortex. It felt sacred, deeply peaceful, and simultaneously playful. We met a Swiss woman, Alex, at the rock pool overlook, and invited her to join us the next day at Maraya. We all played dress-up, changing into outfits and hats, and danced and laughed until sunset. It has this effect on you. Alex brought over her Australian fiancé that night, and we all roasted marshmallows and had a dark-sky session outside our villa, near the fire pit, with a professional telescope. We witnessed Saturn’s rings and new constellations, and we shared hot chocolate as we rested on the textured, low cushions and chairs outside. 

The next evening, we headed for the famed Elephant Rock, where the scene was buzzing at sunset. We met strangers, danced, took photos, and sat in semi-underground circular seating with this space-themed rock formation behind us; we couldn’t help but feel transported. 

Sometimes you have to venture so far into the unknown to discover and meet new aspects of yourself. Mainly, it was just fun. The most fun we’d had in years, held within this unmovable backdrop of rock and stone, yet with a palpable feeling of it breathing, flowing, and pulsing with new and ancient energy. 

Banyan Tree Resort in AlUla

Located in Ashar Valley, a 20-minute drive from both Hegra and AlUla Old Town, the Banyan Tree Resort in AlUla features 47 tent-like suites and villas spread across an open site arranged around dramatic rock formations. With roofs of sand-colored canvas, they blend effortlessly into the pale desert landscape and honey-colored rocks.

We splurged on a two-bedroom villa with a private lap pool facing the famed Maraya. It offered complete privacy and was outfitted with loungers, a full sectional outdoor sofa, and a fire pit with chairs meters away from the terrace. 

Each morning, the hotel would rake and shape patterns in the sand, evoking the rich history and culture of the Nabataean civilization. This attention to detail was the baseline for creating an otherworldly experience. The design reflects local influences, inspired by both the natural surroundings and the Bedouin culture that has long shaped the area. 

Decor is calm and minimalistic with nods to both Saudi’s past and present: bespoke works by Saudi artists, Sadu fabric, and native plants. The highlight of the spa—in addition to the treatments and fitness center—is the infinity-edge rock pool. Tucked into the Ashar Valley, it is reminiscent of the wadis that appear at the foot of the cliffs during rain spells. 

The History of AlUla 

Set in a striking valley deep in Saudi Arabia’s northwestern desert, AlUla is an oasis of ancient kingdoms, spellbinding skies, and sculpted sandstone formations. Largely closed to outsiders for centuries, AlUla is now open to visitors and is one of the country’s most exciting and enticing destinations. 

The area was once a vital stop on the incense route that linked Arabia to the Mediterranean and is home to more than 200,000 years of human history, with surreal natural monuments and mind-boggling archaeological sites. The most famous are Elephant Rock and the burial tombs of Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. But there are so many other reminders of Arabia’s earliest kingdoms, such as the rock art and ancient scripts of Jabal Ikmah and the lion-guarded necropolis of Dadan. 

But the region is also forward-looking. New tourism projects, such as the giant mirrored building Maraya, the AlJadidah Arts District, and the soon-to-open contemporary arts hub, Wadi AlFann, are transforming the destination into one of the world’s coolest cultural hot spots. New luxury hotels are popping up, Michelin-starred chefs are taking charge of new restaurants, and travelers are starting to take notice. 

Hegra 

Carved from honey-colored rocks, the ancient city and burial tombs of Hegra are AlUla’s undeniable crown jewel. It’s thought that the settlement was built around the sixth century BCE, but it was under the rule of the desert-dwelling Nabateans in the first century CE (the same people responsible for carving the city of Petra in Jordan) that the city flourished. Under Nabataean rule, Hegra grew to include more than 130 dwellings, wells, irrigation canals, tombs, and reservoirs. 

Hegra is home to more than 110 grand, rock-carved tombs, their facades chiseled with intricate patterns and designs. Standing 21 meters tall, the Tomb of Lihyan Son of Kuza is the tallest of them all, but Qasr al-Farid (the Lonely Castle), carved from a single monolith, is the most famous. 

AlUla’s Old Town

Lodged at the narrowest point of the AlUla Valley, against sheer sandstone cliffs and alongside a lush green oasis, the region’s Old Town remains largely unchanged since 1200 CE. Once a major hub for historic trade and pilgrimage routes, the town was continuously inhabited until recently—the last residents left only in the 1980s. 

Today, the labyrinth of centuries-old alleyways and densely packed mudbrick homes is being slowly and carefully restored, providing an insight into hundreds of years of history. Market squares, once noisy, bustling places, are today being given new life, and the Old Town’s Incense Road Market—once home to 400 shops—is being redeveloped with new vendors selling handicrafts, antiques, and souvenirs. 

Although the golden age of the incense trade had died before the end of the first millennium CE, the Old Town remained an important trading hub. Mostly, however, it was pilgrims who passed through, with Muslims stopping to see the sixth-century Masjid Al-Itham (Mosque of Bones) on their way to Makkah and Madinah. Built to mark the spot where the Prophet Muhammad stopped to pray, the mosque is still standing today. 

Also nearby is the Tantora sundial, once used for hundreds of years by residents and visitors to celebrate the passing of seasons. Although no one is quite sure when it was first built, the sundial remains a focal point of AlUla’s Old Town today, particularly for the Winter at Tantora Festival. 

Harrat Viewpoint 

Perched on a rocky outcrop is the towering 10th-century fort overlooking the Old Town, the oasis, and the desert beyond, but for the best views, it’s all about Harrat Viewpoint. From AlUla Old Town, drive through black lava stone terrain to the volcanic plateau of Harrat, and you’ll be rewarded with 360-degree views over the desert. Visit just before sunset and watch the golden cliffs turn a fiery red as the sun sets over the desert. 

AlUla Oasis

Immediately next door to the Old Town is the AlUla Oasis, a lush green grove of date palms that produce more than 90,000 tons of dates every year. The oasis predates the Dadanite Kingdom and served as a haven for pilgrims. There’s a self-guided tour, the Heritage Oasis Trail, that takes around two hours: the walk passes working farms, follows gentle streams, and passes through shady spots for picnics. We walked from the Oasis to a scenic café, the Pink Camel, ordered Saudi coffee and pastries, and continued to the old town. 

Let’s Talk About Maraya

Set against the dramatic desert landscape, Maraya is the world’s largest mirrored building, a colossal cube of reflective panels that offer spellbinding views of the surrounding desert, as well as a photo hot spot. You’ve seen it in images across influencer accounts, the stunning backdrop to any AlUla visit. I love seeing each person’s creative expression in their shot at Maraya, interpreting the energy and their experience. At certain times of day, the building seems to evaporate entirely into the desert, while at others it serves as the perfect canvas, reflecting its dramatic surroundings. 

Inside, the building is equally impressive, and live concerts and art exhibitions are held regularly—the venue hosted Saudi Arabia’s first-ever exhibition of Andy Warhol, and big names including Lebanese star Hiba Tawaji and Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli have already performed on stage. The rooftop Maraya Social is popular for both its uninterrupted desert views and the menu by Michelin-starred British chef Jason Atherton. 

Stargazing and the Night Sky

While AlUla is impressive by day, it’s at night that the desert truly comes to life. Al Gharameel is one of the best places in Saudi to witness the night sky; it’s remote and otherworldly. Surrounded by towering rock pillars, amateur stargazers gather to discover the night sky with a guide who points out the constellations in the velvety sky and explains their cultural meanings and historical role in desert navigation. Afterward, you can enjoy a traditional grilled dinner served around a campfire. 

Elephant Rock

AlUla is home to many famous rock formations, such as Rainbow Rock, Mushroom Rock, and Fish Rock (a striking natural wonder in Wadi AlFann, an enormous sandstone formation nearly 200 meters long that resembles a fossilized prehistoric fish). 

Most famous of all is Elephant Rock, a 52-meter-high sandstone formation that has been gently eroded over millions of years by rain, wind, and sand to form the shape of an elephant, its trunk firmly rooted to the ground. We met visitors from around the globe, traded hats and attire for pics, and shared a meal with a group after simply asking to take their photo. 

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After three and a half days at Banyan Tree in AlUla, we decided to do something crazy. Instead of flying to the Red Sea airport for our upcoming stay at Desert Rock, we took a car. A driver we had met earlier while hitchhiking was a part-time taxi driver, and he was up for the adventure. He would pull over whenever we wanted to capture camels chilling or strolling by the side of the road. When was the last time a gal from Texas and a guy from Paris saw camels in the wild? We were beside ourselves with excitement. Wild, wide open spaces, car windows half cracked, and the wind in our hair. 

The Architectural Marvel of Desert Rock 

I followed the Desert Rock project, imagining how the dreamlike digital renderings might be brought to life after seeing them in London at a conference. Two years later, we were making the transcendent drive up to the hotel, which turned into the best stay of our lives and an unexpected wellness haven. You walk within formations that seamlessly blend the landscape with the ethereal design, and the welcome area appears like a mirage. 

As a woman in her 40s who is more comfortable in the background, anonymous, and taking care of other people, this visit felt very different to me. It was perhaps the first time in years that I felt main-character energy back in my own life. I pulled out every dress I brought, unapologetically embodied the atmosphere and energy, danced on bridges, communed with camels, ziplined across a canyon, and kept a sunrise-to-sunset wellness schedule. I did hear that little voice that whispers, You’re not a young influencer; who are you to be taking so many photos and posing like you’re on the gram? You’ll need to shut that voice down really quickly, because this place is a once-in-a-lifetime stay. 

It was a dream trip, and for once, I didn’t have to focus my energy on taking care of other people. This could be just for me. I could be fully present, putting my attention, energy, and focus on my own adventures.

And honestly, I went a little bit wild. I did multiple sauna and steam sessions a day, spent 90 minutes at their large customized glass gym, tried a different restaurant for each meal, and could barely squeeze in all the activities I wanted to try, including ziplining over craters. 

Let me set the scene. Arriving at the resort, visitors travel through a narrow canyon along a path lined with lanterns, and the resort’s 54 villas and 10 suites (each with their own pool) are spread across the valley, sculpted into ancient caves, perched on clifftops, and wedged into crevices. Similarly, the interiors echo the desert palette with earthy browns and sandy hues. 

Rooms have been carved into the towering jagged granite cliffs that rise abruptly from the desert floor. Built to blend seamlessly into the weathered cliffs and bronzed rocks, the hotel feels as though it’s been here for centuries. In reality, it’s one of the newest in the region. We shared a cave room, built into the side of the mountain, with a personal pool and a refrigerator filled with boutique luxury snacks and small bespoke products, all refilled daily. 

A 120-meter suspension bridge leads you up winding steps, towering above the desert to the Observation Deck to watch the sunset. Note, this is a photo-op dream. We took a bag filled with outfit changes for each part of the journey to the deck. I hadn’t been in a photo shoot for 18 years, so I made up for lost time. 

At the base of the massif lies the spa, the largest I’ve ever seen, with eight treatment rooms, a private hammam, sauna, and a rhassoul chamber, used for the traditional Arabian body treatment involving steam and mud. I actually found the general manager to brag about the steam room in particular. It was always on, hot, and ready to go. I loved that it didn’t take 20 minutes to break a sweat. Knowing I would be in these images, I stopped by twice a day for a skin refresher top-up. 

They are unparalleled in the details. They even had the top-notch Dyson hair dryer, curling irons, and accessories in the changing room. Another small mention: when I told them the ironing was consuming so much time, they provided us with a steamer. They offered to iron for us, but I couldn’t ask anyone to do that excruciating task, and their hand steamer was a game-changer. It was the only hotel I’ve ever found to provide one. It took me 10 minutes a day, rather than an hour. 

For a little background, the resort was designed by New York–based Oppenheim Architecture, which drew inspiration from the mountainous landscape and the Nabataean rock-carved architecture dating back more than 2,000 years. Rather than build on top of the rocks, the Nabataeans carved into them, creating living spaces—and tombs—that provided shelter and protected them from the heat and the cold. Desert Rock Resort echoes this design. 

The resort’s adventure area, which I highly recommend, offers ATV riding, ziplining, hiking, rappelling, and much more. Guided nature walks are also offered. 

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Six Senses Southern Dunes Resort 

I was also a bit indulgent at Six Senses and went in the other direction. I had no schedule, and I dropped in and did as little as possible, except for my daily fitness sessions at the gym. I’d lie on the double-bed swing on our balcony and read books. Then Sampad, the manager of Al Sarab, the restaurant overlooking the resort, would let us have a few fun photo shoots before sunset, where the entire staff supported and joined in with craft mocktails, hookah, and styling. 

Hands down, they offered the best breakfast I’ve ever had. Health nuts, rejoice. Organic fresh juices, turmeric and lemon shots, superfood meals, chickpea vegan omelets, chia smoothies, and golden lattes were just a few of their offerings. It is a wellness lover’s paradise. I’d leap from bed each morning ready to eat, starting with ginger shots and avocado toast. 

A fun side note. While eating breakfast outside on the patio, we noticed a couple with stellar camera gear, who happened to be world-class photographers and creators (especially drone images), Rob and Marcella, a Guatemalan couple living half-time in Miami. As a testament to the synergy found in these dunes, we connected for two hours, then asked them to join our team for each issue. Check out their stunning images in this one. 

Six Senses’ philosophy of nutritious, healthy food includes all-day restaurant Bariya, as well as a cooking school and a

chef’s table. The cooking school focuses on Indian and Middle Eastern cuisines as well as fermentation and pickling. Al Sarab is an Arabic fine-dining restaurant with locally sourced ingredients, overlooking the distant dunes. To even out those morning ginger shots, there’s also a 24-hour Gelato Pod, offering complimentary scoops of gelato with flavors such as sumac and cashew, basil, and za’atar. It’s all about balance.

The Vision

Located in the desert, a 45-minute drive from the coast, this was the first hotel to open in the region. When the kingdom’s Vision 2030 is complete, the Red Sea will be home to 50 hotels with 8,000 rooms, plus 1,000 residential properties, and the entire destination will run on renewable energy. Utilities at Six Senses Southern Dunes are already powered by renewable energy. The focus is on sustainability and serenity. 

The hotel was built using materials that reduce dependence on artificial cooling. A lot of native desert flora has been planted to attract birdlife like bee-eaters and blackstarts. At the heart of the property is the Oasis, a lush space filled with fountains and shaded by rope canopies. 

After three days in the dunes, we were off again. Six Senses provided a metallic blue, decked-out Mercedes sports car to take us to the launching point for Nujuma, along the kingdom’s beautiful, unspoiled Red Sea coastline. 

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Dreaming on the Red Sea

Nujuma Resort, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

When visiting Saudi Arabia, I was so excited about journeying to the Red Sea. Egypt receives so much attention for its diving that Saudi Arabia is often overlooked. When I posted photos on my personal Instagram, the most common response was Wait, this is Saudi? Biking over wooden bridges from our overwater villa to the gym or restaurants was like living in a surreal bubble, suspended from reality. Honestly, I am reality-averse these days. 

The five-star luxury boat (with lie-flat heated seats, back massagers, and high-speed Wi-Fi) carried us across the sea to the Ummahat Islands, where Nujuma lies. We’d wake up, jump off the deck, and go snorkeling before breakfast, then ride our bikes across the wooden bridges all over Nujuma Resort, then kayak in the afternoons. The most unexpected part was the joy we felt each day. It was easy—we could be active and bathe in the sun while eating snacks on daybeds in the afternoon. 

We’d jump on the lifeguard stand and have a ridiculous spontaneous photo shoot, work out in the gym overlooking the lap pool, and order food and drinks on cabana loungers as we watched the sunset. I couldn’t script a more idyllic, dreamy three-week holiday. 

With Nujuma meaning “stars” in Arabic, the Nujuma Resort (a Ritz-Carlton Reserve) is one of two luxury resorts on one of the 22 Ummahat Islands. These uninhabited islands lie just off Saudi Arabia’s west coast, surrounded by crystal-clear waters, rich mangroves, and the world’s fourth-largest barrier reef, which teems with marine life, including 165 endemic fish. 

Guests can transfer by seaplane or a 30-minute speedboat ride (highly recommended) from the mainland to Nujuma, where 63 solar-powered villas sit on elevated walkways linked by a large circular walkway. The sphere-shaped villas are the work of British firm Foster + Partners and were inspired by seashells. Inside the villas, enjoy graceful curves and tall ceilings that arc above the bedroom, as well as an open-plan living and dining room. The central bed has been positioned to overlook the generous terrace, private pool, and cerulean seas beyond. 

The Neyrah Spa features a lap pool, hydrotherapy facilities, and a smorgasbord of holistic treatments, including sound healing therapy, massages, and breathwork workshops. The Tibetan hydro-facialist is a skincare master, so add it to your list. 

Sita is a day-dining restaurant housed beneath an open-air latticed timber dome. There’s also Maia, for astrology-inspired drinks and sunset chasers, and Tabrah for seafood with Spanish influence. 

I am a bike enthusiast, and we never needed to take a buggy, and the feeling of being fully alive as we wheeled around the resort, over bridges, feeling the wind, was magnetic. We only had three days here, and it was not nearly enough, so plan accordingly. 

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Last but Not Least, Jeddah

Well, we did another crazy thing, and instead of flying from the Red Sea International Airport to Jeddah, we called our friend, the taxi driver from AlUla (yes, five hours away). He came to drive us from the Red Sea to Jeddah, about five hours. We chose to drive so we could linger longer at Nujuma and witness more of the Saudi landscape. 

We checked in at the Shangri-La Jeddah and splurged on the one-bedroom sea view suite with a wraparound balcony, complete with an oversized tub overlooking the sea. My favorite aspect for you fitness lovers is their massive, corner unit glass gym, one of the largest any hotel offers. I would wake up early and spend 90 minutes before breakfast trying out most of their machines. I actually returned home four pounds lighter after vacation. When does that happen? 

My French colleague could not wait to purchase the red-and-white headscarf, a shemagh, before our journey home. We walked into a store on our first day, and the shopkeeper carefully wrapped it around his head with pride; he wore it all day (and now sometimes to the office). 

Jeddah’s History

Long the gateway to Makkah, Jeddah lies on the eastern shore of the Red Sea. It’s a city of color that is fast becoming one of the most dynamic in the kingdom. Saudi Arabia’s second-largest city has a booming creative scene, an exciting restaurant culture, cool new waterfront hotel offerings, and a stunning UNESCO-listed old town.

Dating back to the seventh century, Al-Balad, Jeddah’s old town, is the main attraction, with narrow lanes lined with ancient houses, many built from coral blocks from the Red Sea. The neighborhood is currently undergoing renovation, with careful work being carried out to restore the rawasheen, the ornately carved wooden balconies that once cooled coastal homes in the summer heat. We walked for hours, trying to capture the historic green and brown dwellings, and unexpectedly found an alley with local artisans, art studios, and tiny cafés. Stroll, wander, get lost, take the narrow alleys, and buy the gifts before your flight home. 

Jeddah Fun Facts

On al-Alawi Street in the heart of the old town is Nassif House (Bayt Nassif), an elegant mansion block built in the late 1800s for Sheikh Omar Effendi al-Nassif. It’s one of the most beautiful buildings in the neighborhood, a masterpiece of traditional Hijazi architecture with elegant wooden balconies, carved doors, and a large courtyard. It also featured a clever underfloor cooling device that collected and stored rainwater in cisterns, which in turn lowered the house’s temperature in summer. A neem tree stands tall outside the entrance—until the 1920s, it was allegedly the only tree in Jeddah. As such, the house is often called “the house with the tree.” 

Today, Nassif House is a museum, its rooms filled with artwork dating back to the 19th century, ancient Arabic calligraphy, and more than 16,000 books from King Abdulaziz University’s central library. 

The Contemporary Cultural Scene

Jeddah’s contemporary cultural scene is equally dynamic. Opened in 2021, Hayy Jameel is a white-hued nonprofit arts complex and creative hub, home to galleries, education spaces, a concept store, and Saudi Arabia’s first independent cinema. On the fifth floor of the Serafi Mega Mall is ATHR, a contemporary art gallery that’s been at the forefront of the kingdom’s changing art scene since it was founded in 2009. The gallery showcases Middle Eastern and international artists with a special focus on Saudi artists. 

While much of the annual events calendar celebrates Jeddah’s art and culture scene with concerts, fireworks, installations, and pop-up attractions, the city also enjoys a serene coastline. A favorite with locals is strolling along the Jeddah Corniche, a 30-kilometer stretch of coastline lined with parks, picnic areas, art installations, and King Fahad’s fountain, which jets water more than 300 meters into the air. It’s also the location for the Floating Mosque, the white Al-Rahmah Mosque that was constructed on stilts over the sea. 

Fun, Feasts, and Transformation

When you’re traveling to a foreign land, you have certain hesitations and expectations, as you’re stepping into the unknown. We spent three glorious weeks in Saudi Arabia, and as someone who lives eight months a year on the road, it was one of the most transformative and fun experiences I’ve ever had, and one of the top destinations I’ve ever visited. You can’t really discover Saudi Arabia without exploring new parts of yourself. 

Passing camels on the road as we made our way from mountainous desert cave hotels to the turquoise Red Sea’s overwater bungalows, then vast dune villas, the dramatic landscapes, the warmth of the people, the beauty of its wild vastness—it doesn’t quite leave you. It was, hands down, my favorite holiday in the last decade.