The Road Less Travelled. Krabi and South Thailand

Images and Words: Javier Colombo

Instagram: @awonderseeker

When most people think of southern Thailand, places like Phuket and Koh Phi Phi usually come to mind. And there’s a good reason for that—they’re two of the country’s most popular destinations and are worth a visit in their own right. However, if you are looking to take the road less traveled, there’s much more to discover in the region.

In contrast to the hyper-developed Phuket, the mainland south of Thailand feels raw and untouched. You’ll drive past endless palm tree plantations, tiny roadside temples, and villages tucked into thick jungle. But in my opinion, the limestone cliffs are what make this place so special. These mountains pop out seemingly out of nowhere, covered in dense green—it’s a wild and dramatic sight.

The main points of interest in the region are well-connected and not far apart. Ao Nang is a great base: the international airport is nearby, and there are great accommodation and food options. It’s popular enough that transportation to any other point is widely available. I normally rent a motorbike to move around, but there are tons of options for shared vans and private cars.

Krabi, besides the beautiful and very popular Railay beach, offers lots of options for day trips. You’ve got the classic island-hopping tours—Maya Bay, Hong Island, and James Bond Island—as well as inland gems like the Emerald Pool, a crystal-clear natural spring surrounded by jungle. The Tiger Cave Temple, a 30-minute drive from Ao Nang, is a temple embedded in nature with a steep climb of over 1,000 steps. It rewards you with a massive Buddha statue and panoramic views of the area.

Phang Nga Bay is about a two-hour drive from Ao Nang and well worth the trip. The incredible limestone cliffs rising out of emerald-green water make for one of the most iconic landscapes in Thailand. You can explore it by boat or even kayak, and there are many viewpoints with great views of the bay to enjoy the sunrise and sunset.

Nearby, Khao Sok is one of Thailand’s best-kept secrets. Still relatively unknown but getting more popular by the day, it’s a slice of prehistoric jungle tucked away in the south. It’s home to one of the oldest rainforests in the world, dramatic limestone cliffs, and the stunning Cheow Lan Lake. Recently, more and more hotels have sprung up, offering cabins and bungalows on the lake. It feels raw, remote, and totally different from Thailand’s beaches.

Peaceful Surat Thani is home to several interesting temples, such as Dharma Park and Wat Chedi, and serves as a gateway to the islands on the Gulf of Thailand: Koh Samui, Koh Tao, and Koh Phangan. The local airport offers connections to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and other major destinations across Thailand, making it a convenient hub for continuing your journey.

RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Spend a night in Khao Sok.

There are accommodation options for every budget on the lake. It’s an incredible experience to sleep in a cabin floating on the water surrounded by the limestone cliffs. Take into account that aside from swimming near the hotel, you will depend on private transportation to move around.

2. Visit incredible temples in the area. 

The roads connecting the provinces in the region have many great temples, like the Wat Bang Thong, with a huge incredibly detailed golden stupa, and Wat Bang Riang, a beautiful temple embedded in nature.

3. Sunrise at the Samet Nangshe Viewpoint. 

There are several viewpoints offering stunning views of Phang Nga Bay, but in my opinion, Samet Nangshe is the best. Just follow the directions on Google Maps to the parking area, buy your ticket at the entrance, and get on the truck that takes you up to the viewpoint. This viewpoint is best at sunrise and sunset.

4. Take some time to get lost. 

The area that comprises Krabi, Phang Nga, and Surat Thani is one of the most beautiful places to relax and enjoy a scenic drive.

5. Spend a night at Railay Beach.

Railay Beach is one of the most popular and, therefore, crowded beaches in Thailand. However, right before sunset, the boats take all the day-trip visitors back to Ao Nang, and the place becomes a peaceful paradise. Wake up early in the morning to find the pristine beaches completely empty. 

Travel Tips

1. Be Careful with the Monkeys. 

Monkeys are common in the area, and it’s not unusual to spot them around hotels. They’re not dangerous—just a little mischievous. Be sure to close your windows when you leave to keep them from sneaking in and stealing your stuff, and never try to touch or feed them.

2. Itinerary Recommendations. 

Try connecting destinations instead of returning to the same base each time. Instead of going back to Ao Nang after every day trip, consider spending at least a night in each place. A good itinerary could start at Ao Nang, then Phang Nga, Khao Sok, and either flying to Bangkok or taking a ferry to the Gulf islands.

3. Book Khao Sok in Advance. 

Book your Khao Sok accommodation well in advance. The floating bungalows are very popular and tend to sell out quickly—especially in high season. If you want to stay overnight on the lake, it’s best to book several months ahead.

4. Take a Ferry

Take a ferry to Koh Samui from Surat Thani. Flights to Samui tend to be pricey since only one airline operates the route, but the ferry is a much cheaper—and often more convenient—alternative.